The GMT Halaesa-Nebrodi: Ten Months On – Let's Take Stock-Sicily

Here's the English translation of the interview with Francesco Modica:

Francesco Saverio Modica, Francesco to everyone, is a young archaeologist from Mistretta and the son of Vincenzo, a highly decorated marathon runner of international renown. However, Francesco chose to run his personal marathon between archaeological digs, at a very special pace that alternates between the frenzy of unearthing a discovery of exceptional importance and the meticulous slowness inherent in the delicate work he has chosen to do.

I met Francesco during one of the most exciting moments of his brief but already intense experience as an archaeologist. We found ourselves in Tusa, at the site of Halaesa Arconidea, during one of the few breaks from the excavation that Francesco has been following with particular passion, still electrified by an exceptional discovery that we will discuss later.

A Passion for Archaeology and Early Discoveries

Francesco, in recent months it's been really difficult to talk to you calmly: your work as an archaeologist keeps you very busy, and I'd like to understand better why you chose this profession and the results you've achieved so far.

"My passion for archaeology goes way back. When I was four years old, I visited this place with my mother, and from then on, I never forgot it. My high school years in Mistretta further fueled this passion. In fact, after my studies, I spent many of my afternoons visiting the countryside surrounding the town, rich with ancient paths leading to special places. I often stumbled upon pottery shards, exposed structures, and ruined churches, which only fueled my imagination. This slowly transformed into a passion and a desire to delve deeper. I earned my master's degree in Archaeology three years ago and am now completing my PhD at the University of Palermo. Throughout my university journey, I continued to explore the territory, this time in Sicily, identifying lands and areas that could potentially host archaeological sites. My master's thesis, which builds on work done about twenty years ago by Professor Burgio, allowed me to update the mapping of areas of archaeological interest in the Aleso valley, increasing them from 155 to 245."

A Deep Connection to Halaesa Arconidea

It's no coincidence that we are meeting at Halaesa Arconidea, an archaeological site not far from your Mistretta. This is a special place for you, and I'd like to know what connects you to this territory: you are clearly going against the trend of so many of your peers who leave Sicily to work elsewhere.

"Fortunately, my work allows me to live in my homeland, and I've been frequenting Halaesa for ten years now. Imagine, I live only 500 meters away as the crow flies, so my connection to this place is truly deep and special. Living in the territory, I am aware of the beauties it holds but also of the difficulties and contradictions it presents. However, I find it 'natural' to live and stay here. I deeply love these places because I experience them every day, in all their facets. Here, I am fulfilling my adolescent dream: to excavate at Halaesa and restore the historical truth to this very important site."

The Founding of Halaesa and its Roman Alliance

Let's talk about Halaesa: in 403 BC, Archonides of Hèrbitas founded a settlement that would later become the city of Halaesa Arconidea. Who was Archonides, and what were the historical reasons that led him to leave Hèrbitas and move, with his people, to this distant corner of Sicily?

"We don't know much about the Archonides: most likely, the founder of Halaesa was Archonides II, grandson of Archonides I, who transferred a large group of Sicels from Hèrbitas to the northern coast of the island. After the Peloponnesian War, with the defeat of Athens and the victory of Syracuse allied with Sparta, Sicily experienced a moment of great confusion: Carthage took advantage of the conflict by attacking the southern coasts from Agrigento to Camarina, Himera was destroyed, and therefore many displaced people were forced to move elsewhere in search of calmer areas to settle.

Hèrbitas, presumably located in the mountains between Nicosia and Gangi, welcomed a very high number of civilians fleeing the destroyed cities. However, it soon became overpopulated, creating discontent among the inhabitants and forcing its lord to transfer part of the population to the lands north of Sicily. Halaesa was thus founded, which, however, experienced a difficult period in the first century since the Carthaginians, meanwhile, had pushed as far as the mouth of the Pollina river."

Halaesa thus became a very important center of the Roman Empire, as evidenced by the discoveries made so far: what do the remains of the ancient city tell us?

"At the beginning of the First Punic War, in 264 BC, Halaesa decided to ally with Rome; in fact, it was among the first to do so. This allowed it to free itself from the 'decima' of tributes, thus leaving the grain quota in the city that would otherwise have been destined for Rome. Up to the first century AD, Halaesa experienced its best period because it was able to invest a lot of money in public works such as the agora and the sacred temples. In short, the choice to ally with Rome from the outset proved to be decidedly winning."

A Remarkable Discovery: The Baths of Halaesa

Let's get to the present day and the news of the moment: the fifth excavation campaign conducted by the University of Palermo has, among other things, brought to light a thermal area of exceptional importance that further strengthens the idea that Halaesa Arconidea, all things considered, is still yet to be fully discovered.

"We estimate that the total surface area of the city extends over 15.5 hectares, but the state-owned area is smaller, so further land would need to be expropriated. It must also be said that almost all archaeological sites have only unearthed a part of the ancient cities, and it's the same for Halaesa; it would take decades of incessant excavations to unearth the entire site. Regarding the recent discovery, which adds to previous ones concerning the agora, the sanctuary, and the theater, we knew of the existence of a thermal complex, but we certainly couldn't have imagined unearthing such an extensive and important work. There is still much to excavate, but certainly, we are facing one of the largest thermal buildings in Sicily."

A Lifelong Commitment

Francesco, a final customary question: for how long will the attractive force of your land be able to keep you in our territory?

"I think forever: I don't want to leave."

Neither do we, Francesco. Thank you.

The echoes of the inauguration of The Sea Road mural in Torremuzza have barely faded, and the Halaesa-Nebrodi territory is already enriched by another important and evocative work of art: "Noi: Inizio di una nuova vita" (Us: Beginning of a New Life), by Antonino Lipari, known to all of us as Nino.

We are in Mistretta, within the majestic municipal park named after Giuseppe Garibaldi, and the artwork stands where, until recently, a magnificent Norway Spruce (Picea abies) once proudly stood. The cycle of life accustoms us to its fluctuating rhythm, where life precedes death, and death — sometimes — generates life. And so, after several centuries of silent and undisturbed existence, the fir tree became irreversibly diseased to the point that, to safeguard public safety, the city authorities decreed its removal about a year ago.

The community began to wonder how to fill the large void left by the impending demise of the majestic tree. While initiatives were being considered, the administrators decided to completely trim its crown, which was by then irreparably diseased, and to preserve the vast majority of its trunk, which was healthy enough to envision reusing the resulting timber.

An Unexpected Gift

Then, at a certain point, a young carpenter from Mistretta, Nino Lipari, knocked on the mayor's door. With his characteristic politeness, he suggested carving an artwork, a sculpture, from the remaining trunk: "I'll take care of everything," Nino said, "and I don't want to be paid."

It must be said that Nino is not new to the art of wood carving; in the past, through private commissions, he had already demonstrated artistic skills that transcend those of a simple, albeit very skilled, artisan. But now things became decidedly more serious, and he would have to put himself out there, exposing his work to public judgment. Yet Nino was confident; he knew what he was doing, had clear ideas, and possessed the skills to realize them. Thus, he immediately gained the mayor's trust, and work began just a few months after the tree's removal.

Access to the left avenue leading to the central square of the park was closed, opaque nets were put up, and simultaneously, the curiosity of passersby grew. They could barely glimpse scaffolding, the outline of the fir trunk, and Nino moving around it, but nothing more. The work lasted several months, and finally, on the evening of August 11th, the artwork was inaugurated, coinciding with the restoration of the lighting of the main gate of the municipal park.

"Noi": A Symbol of Love and Renewal

Noi blossomed at dusk on a pleasant August evening, contrasting with the sad days of the cutting of the majestic mother-plant that had held it in its womb for three centuries. In this journey that intertwines life with death, and allows death to generate life, Nino sensed the presence, in that trunk otherwise destined for the sadness of abandonment, oblivion, if not destruction, of an opportunity for rebirth and regeneration that could take shape through his hands, his tools, and his heart.

Nino then chose to embark on a reinterpretation of José Luis Santes's The Embrace and thus decided to celebrate his love for his land through the tender and eternal embrace between two lovers. It is a message so simple in its genuineness that, at times, we don't fully grasp its power. But Nino, with his artwork that he decided to give to the community, reminds us that giving oneself to others is also a form of love, that solidarity among people is an act of love, as is gratitude, and that one can become a father infinitely, just as he himself demonstrated by transforming a raw and shapeless piece of wood into a magnificent work of art that all of us can enjoy and through which we will have opportunities to reflect on the true meaning of life.

With these brief words, we extend a warm virtual hug to Nino, his family, and his collaborators, along with a sincere thank you for the significant gesture he performed.

Learn about the Operators and the Project of GMT Halaesa-Nebrodi.

The prestigious recognition was awarded during the "Millefiori Siciliani" Competition, held in Sortino (SR) on September 26, 2025, and organized by A.R.A.S. – the Regional Association of Sicilian Beekeepers.
The judging panel evaluated 86 honey samples from across Sicily, the result of the passionate work of numerous beekeepers who submitted the finest products of their production to a rigorous selection process.

At the end of the tasting sessions, 35 honeys were selected, of which 14 received the distinction of “excellent” and 21 were awarded “very good.”

The results concerning our territory, represented by Il Melograno Farm of Elisa Cerrito, were particularly gratifying: the farm was awarded first and fourth place in the Sicilian Spring Wildflower Honey category.

This is a great source of pride—not only a personal one for Elisa Cerrito and Riccardo Presti, who for years have pursued a virtuous path rooted in respect for local traditions and the production of high-quality honey made possible by the great variety of plants they cultivate—but also because of the strong social value of the project they have long been committed to, through their collaboration with Don Mazzi’s Exodus Foundation and the many educational sessions dedicated to students, where they passionately share the "wonderful world of bees."

“Such a prestigious evaluation not only highlights our dedication as beekeepers, but once again confirms the richness and value of the land where our precious bee friends grow and feed: the territory of Motta d’Affermo and its surroundings,” says Elisa, dynamic Operator of GMT™ Halaesa Nebrodi, further emphasizing how biodiversity, respect for nature, and the authenticity of our land naturally manifest themselves in the production of honey and its derivatives.