Amastra per leggere in Mistretta from April 23rd to May 23rd Sicily

The Story of Romei

The Contrada Romei, located in the territory of Mistretta, is one of the most iconic rural areas in the heart of the Nebrodi region. It's believed that, according to the descriptions by Silius Italicus and Polybius, the ancient city of Noma once stood here, and that the name "Romei" derives directly from the ancient inhabitants of this Greco-Roman city, the Nomei.

Nestled along the eastern slope that winds up towards Contrada Zupardo, near the Serravalle torrent, the former Romei feudal estate was renowned for its abundant production of grapes, citrus fruits, olive oil, and various other fruits. At one time, mulberries were also extensively cultivated here, their leaves serving as food for silkworms. The fertility of the land, combined with the mild climate, encouraged the inhabitants of Mistretta to settle here, as evidenced by the numerous ancient farmhouses still present.

After 1684, the Fief was assigned to Santo Stefano di Camastra but, following various legal disputes, a portion of it returned to the ownership of the Municipality of Mistretta. This led to a sell-off, and many lands were ceded to powerful families such as the Allegra, Natoli, Salamone, Armao, and Aversa, who built prestigious villas. Over time, this district became so populous that it warranted the presence of a detachment of Mistretta's elementary school, housed in a dedicated building where dozens of children were educated. This continued until the 1960s, as recounted and documented by Nella Faillaci, a passionate local history researcher and former head of the Municipal Historical Archive of Mistretta.

Today, the former Romei Fief is experiencing a new season: many of the old families no longer exist, but several estates have gained new life thanks to the interest of numerous new owners who have decided to make these places their home. It's from this interesting regenerative impulse that our story begins.

Palazzo Natoli-Giaconia: A Pearl Set Among Ancient Oaks and Olive Trees

I arrive for my appointment with Martin a few minutes before the scheduled time. He had informed me of a delay shortly before but had given me permission to enter the property. As soon as I step out of the car, which had until then protected me from the summer heat and isolated me from sounds and smells, I'm literally enveloped by the beauty of the place and the incessant chirping of cicadas. There are experiences that transport us back in time, and immediately I feel immersed in an unexpected situation that deserves respect: the ancient farmhouse hosting me, the "Regale dimora" (Royal Residence, as described in pencil on a wall by a guest), radiates extraordinary energy.

I feel like a guest in a place of great sanctity and, for this reason, I move on tiptoe. Even the ancient stone pavement deserves respect, and I tread upon it with circumspection.

While waiting for Martin's arrival, I wander around the courtyard of the imposing, yet well-integrated, historic residence, surrounded by ancient olive trees and dense woodland. Peering here and there, my attention is immediately captured by a spectacular fountain with the date 1761 carved into it. Water flows, and there is life. The central sculpted figure is nestled in a stone niche that still retains red decorations, a characteristic also visible along the main two-story facade, which features a spectacular double-ramp staircase leading to the upper floor. Indeed, I notice how the red with which the ground floor walls were painted is still visible on the facade, which, together with yellow and green, must have given the building a particularly elegant and classical appearance. After all, we are in the midst of Neoclassicism, and the echo of the archaeological excavations of Pompeii and Herculaneum evidently reached here too, leaving its mark on this building. 

I find some doors open that lead to the warehouses where an ancient olive mill is still visible, with its enormous stone millstone and press operated by pack animals. Electricity would arrive very late in these parts, but the old owners, heirs of the Natoli-Giaconia family, had in the meantime circumvented the problem by purchasing a modern system located in another building and powered by a generator. The mill remained in operation until the 1960s, becoming the reference point for the surrounding area for olive milling.

Next to the building is the completely unadorned rural church, dated 1783, with a small altar and majolica floor at the back.

Martin Décleve and Valérie Verdinne: From the Pandemic to Their Dream

The chirping of the cicadas is momentarily interrupted by the arrival of a car: it's Martin, who greets me with a warm smile, which I promptly return.

We begin sipping a cool aperitif on the terrace, which accompanies our pleasant chat, during which Martin tells me about himself and what brought him here from Belgium.

"It's a project that started a long time ago: I taught Latin and Greek for twenty-two years, and my wife Valérie inherited a family pharmacy, but we both had a desire to dedicate ourselves to art. So, at a certain point, I left teaching to pursue photography and cinematography professionally, and, with Valérie, we restored a house in Brussels together. During the pandemic, despite the restrictions, we started traveling in Italy until we arrived in Sicily, where we encountered this territory that immediately fascinated us."

"Valérie and I," Martin continues, "always thought about buying a property with special characteristics, one that would tell a story by itself, and we thought that in this area, sooner or later, we would find it. We didn't entrust our search to real estate agencies, but rather to word-of-mouth. So, thanks to common acquaintances, we were put in touch with the old owners, and after a while, our search concluded."

After the pandemic, Martin and Valérie bought the property from the Parlato-Martorana family and immediately began cleaning and recovering the grounds, but not the building itself. This was a deliberate choice. "For now, we are focusing on cleaning the eighteen-hectare land," Martin continues, "but for me, it's a real spectacle to recover it little by little. Every day is a new discovery, and that's beautiful! The goal is to clean about four hectares and leave the rest as woodland. The house will only be renovated when we fully understand which direction to take. We are looking for a model to apply, but the common ones don't satisfy us, so we will wait as long as necessary. We plan, however, to create a model that combines culture with agriculture."

The DDT Project is Born: Contemporary Art Marries History

"Two years ago, Valérie, some friends, and I spent our first summer in this place. Outside, it was still a jungle, but we all perceived the charm that emanated from the whole: peace, beauty, the land, history. In the meantime, we abandoned the idea of creating a farm holiday resort and simply dedicating ourselves to hospitality and catering. So we took a break, and now we are looking for a deeper, more spiritual purpose, creating a reality where our desire for creation can be shared. I can't imagine a day without creativity, without the desire to create, and with Valérie, we believe we can develop a life model that transmits happiness."

"We then shared the idea of setting up an exhibition now, leaving and presenting the building as we found it, using the many rooms to host the creations."

As stated in the press release, the DDT project uses the message found on the wall as the title of this initiative, but above all, it elevates it to a keyword full of expectations, in a residence that, in fact, at the moment, offers nothing regal but a rare, expansive sense of cathartic peace. Unlike A and G, the two unknown individuals who signed the graffiti with only their initials after a short stay more than one hundred and twenty years ago, Declève and Verdinne are well aware that in the long term of their stay, the undertaking will consist of "giving time back to the temporary."

Next to the entrance door, on the wall, some dates traced in red paint can be read: above, 1761, that of the foundation of the structure; on both sides of the door, dates ranging from 1948 to 1967 refer to the period of DDT spraying against malaria. Over the centuries mentioned, the place has undergone numerous transformations. But it is undoubtedly during the mid-century following the ban on the insecticide, at the end of the 1970s, that the most radical metamorphosis occurred: the conclusion of agricultural activity, the abandonment of the land, and the use of the main building, left for more than thirty years, as an occasional holiday home. The DDT years were those of the "great acceleration." Beyond the illusory desire to distance this recent past, the misappropriation of the acronym expresses the new owners' desire to make this place a place of agriculture and culture, a space where time can be given back to the provisional.

DDT project – Before leaving this royal residence

Artists: Régis Baudy, Sébastien Bonin, Alessandro Costanzo, Étienne Courtois, Martin Declève, Myriam El Haïk, Laurent Friob, Anna Guillot, Sebastiano Leta, Renee Marcus Janssen, Emmanuel Piron, Rawakari, Agostino Rocco, Alfredo Sciuto.

DDT project: Martin Declève & Valérie Verdinne Dimora del temporaneo, Mistretta, Contrada Romei, Sicily, Italy 16.08—14.09.2025 Opening: Saturday 16—Sunday 17 August

(1) Romei, crocevia dei pellegrini. Nella Faillaci, Il Centro storico-giugno 2003

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Today Mistretta experienced a truly emotional afternoon as the long-awaited official news arrived: it has been selected as one of the six finalist cities vying to become Italian Book Capital 2025. This achievement is truly exceptional, the result of a candidacy submitted on July 8th, following an excellent team effort involving intellectuals, administrators, associations, journalists, residents and non-resident Mistrettesi, as well as many citizens.

On the 29th of this month, the six selected cities (out of twenty competing cities) will be called upon to present their project to the jury via video conference. The chosen project will then immediately go to the table of the Minister of Culture, Giuli, for final ratification. The full text of the dossier can be downloaded here: https://www.comune.mistretta.me.it/portals/1854/SiscomArchivio/6/Capitale%20italiana%20del%20libro%202025_signed.pdf.

The echoes of the inauguration of The Sea Road mural in Torremuzza have barely faded, and the Halaesa-Nebrodi territory is already enriched by another important and evocative work of art: "Noi: Inizio di una nuova vita" (Us: Beginning of a New Life), by Antonino Lipari, known to all of us as Nino.

We are in Mistretta, within the majestic municipal park named after Giuseppe Garibaldi, and the artwork stands where, until recently, a magnificent Norway Spruce (Picea abies) once proudly stood. The cycle of life accustoms us to its fluctuating rhythm, where life precedes death, and death — sometimes — generates life. And so, after several centuries of silent and undisturbed existence, the fir tree became irreversibly diseased to the point that, to safeguard public safety, the city authorities decreed its removal about a year ago.

The community began to wonder how to fill the large void left by the impending demise of the majestic tree. While initiatives were being considered, the administrators decided to completely trim its crown, which was by then irreparably diseased, and to preserve the vast majority of its trunk, which was healthy enough to envision reusing the resulting timber.

An Unexpected Gift

Then, at a certain point, a young carpenter from Mistretta, Nino Lipari, knocked on the mayor's door. With his characteristic politeness, he suggested carving an artwork, a sculpture, from the remaining trunk: "I'll take care of everything," Nino said, "and I don't want to be paid."

It must be said that Nino is not new to the art of wood carving; in the past, through private commissions, he had already demonstrated artistic skills that transcend those of a simple, albeit very skilled, artisan. But now things became decidedly more serious, and he would have to put himself out there, exposing his work to public judgment. Yet Nino was confident; he knew what he was doing, had clear ideas, and possessed the skills to realize them. Thus, he immediately gained the mayor's trust, and work began just a few months after the tree's removal.

Access to the left avenue leading to the central square of the park was closed, opaque nets were put up, and simultaneously, the curiosity of passersby grew. They could barely glimpse scaffolding, the outline of the fir trunk, and Nino moving around it, but nothing more. The work lasted several months, and finally, on the evening of August 11th, the artwork was inaugurated, coinciding with the restoration of the lighting of the main gate of the municipal park.

"Noi": A Symbol of Love and Renewal

Noi blossomed at dusk on a pleasant August evening, contrasting with the sad days of the cutting of the majestic mother-plant that had held it in its womb for three centuries. In this journey that intertwines life with death, and allows death to generate life, Nino sensed the presence, in that trunk otherwise destined for the sadness of abandonment, oblivion, if not destruction, of an opportunity for rebirth and regeneration that could take shape through his hands, his tools, and his heart.

Nino then chose to embark on a reinterpretation of José Luis Santes's The Embrace and thus decided to celebrate his love for his land through the tender and eternal embrace between two lovers. It is a message so simple in its genuineness that, at times, we don't fully grasp its power. But Nino, with his artwork that he decided to give to the community, reminds us that giving oneself to others is also a form of love, that solidarity among people is an act of love, as is gratitude, and that one can become a father infinitely, just as he himself demonstrated by transforming a raw and shapeless piece of wood into a magnificent work of art that all of us can enjoy and through which we will have opportunities to reflect on the true meaning of life.

With these brief words, we extend a warm virtual hug to Nino, his family, and his collaborators, along with a sincere thank you for the significant gesture he performed.

Learn about the Operators and the Project of GMT Halaesa-Nebrodi.